The Ultimate Shirt Shopping Guide
Everything you need to know about With Nothing Underneath.
If you’re a regular reader of this newsletter, you’ll probably have noticed that With Nothing Underneath, or WNU, is a brand that crops up over and over and over. There’s good reason for it. Beyond it offering some of the very best-quality shirts I’ve found on the market, it’s one of those companies that ticks a lot of boxes for me: it’s small, woman-led, independently owned, sustainably minded and offers a level of service and attention to detail that is rare today, but IMO should be the standard.
This ‘back-to-school’ period, when we’re all reassessing our autumn workwear wardrobes, felt like the optimal moment to do a dedicated newsletter all about their offering. And so, a couple months ago, I reached out to the team, who invited me to their store, gave me a proper rundown of their pieces and very kindly gifted me a shirt too (although please note this is not sponsored). Below is my guide to everything you need to know – the shapes, the sizing, the fabrics – with a few of my personal recommendations thrown in for good measure. And as always, if you end up buying one, do let me know what you went for. Or, even better, send me a picture!
The Overview
WNU is a B-corp-certified womenswear label based in London that specialises in shirting. The founder, Pip Durell, used to be a stylist for the likes of Vogue and Tatler before she eventually decided to address the absolute dearth of good-quality shirt options for women (to which I can attest). Although WNU also offers shorts, palazzo trousers, a somewhat-cult baseball cap and a couple other bits and bobs, it has for the most part stayed true to its core offering, and it does that core offering exceptionally well. For anyone looking for beautiful shirts for work or life, it’s the first brand I recommend without skipping a beat.
The average WNU shirt retails at around the £100ish mark, which in my humble view (be it somewhat warped from working at Net-A-Porter) feels like exceptional value for what you’re getting. And for a tad extra, you can even personalise it with embroidery, because why not? They’re available to order online from their website and from a couple retailers such as Selfridges, although I’d highly recommend a visit to their exceedingly chic store in Fitzrovia (pictured above and below).
The Styles
Over the years, WNU has expanded its roster, although a few core silhouettes remain the bestsellers. The Classic is what it says on the tin: the most failsafe basic-in-the-best-way style with a front pocket and a true-to-size fit. The Boyfriend, meanwhile, is a more relaxed, longer cut inspired by men’s shirting, with buttons on the opposite side. If you’re a fan of the slouchier look, there’s also the boxy Weekend and the extra-oversized Chessie, both of which feature drop shoulders.
On top of all that, you’ll find the Girlfriend (my new personal favourite – although it seems to have disappeared from their site!), a collarless style that feels a touch more feminine than your typical shirt, as well as the tuxedo-inspired Dress Shirt. The Daphne technically sits under ‘blouses’ on the site, but it’s essentially a more breezy, prairie-esque spin on the Girlfriend with billowing sleeves. Finally, the Iris is a cropped version of the classic shirt that I find super chic and Miu Miu-esque (although this one’s admittedly a little less office-friendly).
The Fabrics
WNU has really thought out its fabric offering – the weights, the weaves, the finishes – and you can find a full rundown on their website. In a nutshell, their Fine Poplin is your classic, crisp shirting material – although of a much higher grade than you’ll find on the high street (and, to be honest, from many designer labels) which can look a bit knackered after one wash. There’s also the Oxford, which is extra soft and slightly weightier, and the Weave, which is a lightweight hybrid of cotton and linen. However, if I had to pick just one highlight it would be the shirts in Tencel – a fabulous, hypoallergenic, low-crease fabric that’s less energy-intensive than cotton and feels incredibly luxurious, with a subtle sheen.
Apart from those, there’s their gorgeous, fluid Silk which is of superb quality (again, much better than most options you’ll find at this price point) as well as their heavier Brushed shirts, which blend cotton with merino wool or cashmere. And for more laidback workplaces, warmer months and weekends, there’s no shortage of more dialled-down, lightweight picks, such as their Hemp, Linen and Seersucker.
The Fit
Pictured: the Boyfriend Contrast, Fine Poplin in Latte Stripe, £95.
The brand follows the standard UK sizing model, ranging from a 6 to an 18, but they’re big proponents of ignoring the label and going with whatever fit you want. Apparently, it’s not uncommon for customers to purchase the same shirt in two or even three sizes. From personal experience, I bought this Weekend and this Boyfriend a couple years ago, and for both I went two sizes up as I wanted that more mannish, oversized look. These days, however, I’m generally veering towards more fitted styles and find they’re better suited to work settings – I picked the Girlfriend in my usual size for my free gift and wore it to a business lunch last week.
Finally, a word of warning here: do be good and follow the care instructions. The brand recommends washing most of its shirts at 30 degrees, which will avoid the risk of shrinking, while their silk should be dry cleaned. And obviously, absolutely none of these should see the inside of a tumble dryer (i.e. where beautiful clothes go to die).
My Top Picks
The Boyfriend in Linen, Lapis Blue
Summer may be waning, but I’m of the view that linen can be worn well into autumn and adds a wonderfully unexpected layer to tailoring. If your office skews a bit less formal, then I’d invest in this gorgeous Boyfriend shirt in lapis-blue linen (which I love so much that I’ve already featured it).
Shop here
The Boyfriend in Silk Satin, Onyx (Left)
Alternatively, try the same relaxed style in a more glamorous silk satin. I’m not one to reserve silk for evenings, and this dreamy shirt would add a splash of opulence to your workwear outfits, especially as part an all-black look with gold jewellery.
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The Classic in Fine Poplin, Royal Blue Stripe (Right)
As is probably clear from the three WNU pieces I already own, I’m a fan of a blue-and-white striped shirt – it feels timeless but not plain and can be easily dressed down and dressed up with smart trousers or jeans. This one in a classic fit and cotton-poplin is about as failsafe as they come.
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The Classic in Weave, Celeste Blue
I tried this on in the store and was absolutely besotted with the fabric – it’s an especially great option for warmer months when you want to look polished but not overheat on the Tube. IMO, the more classic the shirt, the more I like to veer away from the standard workwear playbook to avoid it looking staid. I’d opt for lighter neutrals rather than black, grey or navy, or even try a monochrome look in head-to-toe pale blue.
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The Classic in Fine Brushed, Biscuit
The brand sold me on this shirt with the styling, pairing it with a blazer in a matching hue (a much more modern way to do suit dressing in my opinion). This one is spun from cotton with a splash of cashmere.
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The Weekend in Seersucker, Mocha Stripe
Though the Weekend style is, by definition, more of an off-duty option, and this seersucker makes it a perfect beachy cover-up, I’d absolutely wear it to work (in a less stuffy office) too with a tailored trouser. The colour is one of those shades that might not instantly come to mind for workwear, but which you’ll find goes with plenty of bits you already own.
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The Dress Shirt in Poplin, White (Centre)
Finally, for a slightly less conventional spin on the classic white work shirt, try the black tie-inspired Dress Shirt in a crisp poplin. To style, I’d dial down the formality a touch with looser, more oversized fits and layer on edgier accessories.
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